🇨🇱 Chile

Santiago, Chile's capital, is a big, spread-out city set against a dramatic Andes backdrop. I found it safe and modern in its best neighbourhoods but noted it lacks the buzz, late-night energy and footfall of a city like Buenos Aires, with most of the city shutting down after dark. I rate it highly for day trips (wine country, Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, skiing), international food and its metro system, but found nightlife more subdued, alcohol pricier, and noticed more homeless people and junkies in the nicer parts of town than I expected.

I called Valparaíso Chile's most controversial city — some Chileans warn tourists away due to crime and grime, but I found the colorful hillside buildings, street art and port views worth a visit, especially as a day trip.

I visited Chile's most popular beach destination twice and said it surprised me — mainly because of the freezing sea water, but also because of its beautiful architecture, palm trees and sunsets.

I called La Serena one of Chile's most underrated cities, praising its Spanish-style neo-colonial architecture, nearby Elqui Valley pisco tours and stargazing, and its beaches.

I called the Atacama Desert one of my favorite places in Chile and shared five key things to know before visiting San Pedro de Atacama, the base town for all tours in the region.

I visited Concepción, Chile's third-largest city, noting it isn't a major tourist draw but makes a good stopover roughly halfway on a road trip between Santiago and Pucón.

I called Pucón possibly my favourite place in all of Chile: an alpine-style lakeside town in the shadow of Villarrica Volcano, with beaches, cafes, bars and adventure tours.

I visited Valdivia for its craft beer scene, sea lions, rainy green scenery and its place in earthquake history, recommending the Isla Teja neighbourhood over the town centre for a stay.

I called Puerto Varas one of the most beautiful cities in Chile, shaped by German immigration, set on Lake Llanquihue with views of Osorno Volcano, and a good base for day trips around the Lake District.

I called Frutillar arguably the most beautiful town in Chile and the country's most German town, best visited as a sunny day trip from Puerto Varas for its lakeside beach and kuchen cafes.

I visited Puerto Montt despite locals calling it skippable, finding it a reasonable gateway city for Lake District day trips on sunny days but gritty and eerie after dark in parts.

I covered Puerto Natales as the touristy gateway town to Torres del Paine National Park, explaining how non-hikers can see the park's highlights, glaciers and the famous three towers via day tours.

I covered the southernmost city in mainland South America, giving transport tips, beer and seafood recommendations, and noting it's a cheaper, less touristy base than Puerto Natales for Torres del Paine day trips.